tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16676193781584616562024-03-08T15:45:06.461+08:00Bespoke<center>
Adventures in the bespoke arts and investigations of other high quality items for the gentleman.<br><br><br>
</center>Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-32628936047644262722014-03-04T16:58:00.001+08:002014-03-04T16:58:26.953+08:0010 Best Dressed Men in the 86th Academy Awards: did GQ get it right?Some comments on the <a href="http://www.gq.com/style/celebrities/201403/best-dressed-men-oscars-2014?mbid=social_fb_fanpage#slide=11">GQ link shared by my friend Łukasz Doskocz.</a>
<p>No 1. Bradley Cooper.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977220_oscars-best-dressed-men-10.jpg">
<p>Agree, pretty sharp. Nitpick? Coat sleeves and trousers a tad too long. Sleeves should show a bit more cuff, and the trousers, when shorterned, a fewers breaks.
<p>No 2. Michael Fassbender.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977219_oscars-best-dressed-men-9.jpg">
<p>Seriously? Maybe its the photographer angle, but he looks like an ape. Trousers again way too long. Old Hollywood glamour, as personified by Cary Grant and Fred Astaire wear their trousers with just a hint of break, the front of the trouser leg barely caressing the shoes.
<p>No 3. Zac Effron.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977218_oscars-best-dressed-men-8.jpg">
<p>Suit fits. But this is not black tie. Black tie calls for a black bow tie. Shirt collars too narrow, and barrel cuffs are not what Black Tie mandates.
<p>No 4. John Legend.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977217_oscars-best-dressed-men-7.jpg">
<p>Suit fits ok, but button point is too low, looks like its below his navel. The button point of a coat is critical to balance of the look. It needs to be his natural waist, which is perhaps at least 4 inches higher. Both shirt sleeves and coat sleeves are too long.
<p>No 5. Ethan Hawke.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977216_oscars-best-dressed-men-6.jpg">
<p>Not bad, but black tie mandates either a cummerbund or a waistcoat, so the unsightly white shirt does not show below the button of the coat. Awful.
<p>No 6. Chitweel Ejiofor.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977214_oscars-best-dressed-men-5.jpg">
<p>Ah...not bad. Coat sleeves a tad too long, need to show some cuffs. But nice silhouette.
<p>No 7. Jared Leto.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977212_oscars-best-dressed-men-4.jpg">
<p>OMH. This is just plain aweful. A white coat is allowed for black tie, but must be worn with black bow tie, and only on hot summer nights. Fail.
<p>No 8. Kevin Spacey.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977210_oscars-best-dressed-men-3.jpg">
<p>Looks ok. But seriously blue suit? Looks at odds with the regulation black tie, black shoes and black lapels. Again, trousers too long.
<p>No 9. Joseph Gordon-Levitt.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977208_oscars-best-dressed-men-2.jpg">
<p>Smooth look. Beautiful silhouette. But coat sleeves a tad too long, no sleeves showing. The amount of shirt sleeves showing under the cuffs of the coat should be about the same as the amount of collar showing above the coat collar behind the neck.
<p>No 10. Leonardo DiCarprio.
<img src="http://www.gq.com/images/copilot/style/celebrities/201403/1393820977204_oscars-best-dressed-men-1.jpg">
<p>Nice silhouette too. Good call with nice pocket square. Again sleeves and trousers too long. And notch lapels? Black tie coats should be peak lapels or shawl lapels. Not di rigeur.
<p>Only 3 men thought to wear a pocket square. And I am not sure how many of them would have a single stripe down their trouser leg. And I doubt any of the men had either a cummerbund or a waistcoat.Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-79439400771996559412012-06-20T11:45:00.000+08:002012-06-20T11:49:03.011+08:00Gentleman dressing at the Concorsa D'Eleganza della Villa D'Este<p>Attending a premier vintage car event is also an opportunity to observe well dressed gentlemen and beautiful ladies mingle with the exotic vintage cars. I was a guest of A. Lange & Sohne attending the Concorso, the premier vintage car event held annually in the shores of Lake Como in Italy at the Vila D'Este grand hotel.
<p>I am hoping I will have time to cover several well dressed gentlemen as examples to dress for spring. First, an older gentleman, looking wonderful in his white/beige suit, and beautiful shoes.
<br><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/gentleman/full.jpg">
<p>Beautifully tailored linen suit, with a flashy checked bow tie on a wing collar, and panaman hat. With his horn rimmed glasses, he certainly looked the part of a well dressed gentleman at his favourite pursuit of enjoying his motor car in the beautiful Como sun. Love the sprezzatura look of his wind blown hair too.
<p>Note the sleevehead...just beautiful how the tailor...I suspect Neapolitan, fits the large sleevehead into the smaller arm hole, resulting in ripples across the top of the sleeve, creating this magnificent cascading effect.
<br><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/gentleman/top.jpg">
<p>And love the beautiful two tone saddle shoes
<br><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/gentleman/shoes.jpg">
<p>I wished I had worked up the courage to talk to him and discuss his clothes, but I didn't. I don't quite remember if he was the gentleman, but if I am not mistaken his good taste also extended to his watch...a Roger Smith Series 1 strapped on his wrist.Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-19478337599500891532012-01-13T11:02:00.000+08:002012-01-13T11:02:15.428+08:00Bespoke suits in Singapore: Kevin Seah<title>Bespoke suits in Singapore</title>
<h2>It excites me to find artisans who live, and work in Singapore...especially passionate young ones. I said that before. Then I was writing about Edwin Neo, and now I am writing about Kevin Seah...a comrade in arms with Edwin, so to speak...as they share the same premises together at Dominic Khoo's indescribable white space.</h2>
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/ks1.jpg">
<p>Talking with Kevin, I sense the passion he has for fine and beautiful clothing...in particular, bespoke cloths. He carries a bewildering range of fabrics...well, like many tailors, he doesn't actually carry them as stock, but he carries the books, and can supply the cloths. From illustrious mills like <b>Fox Brothers, W. Bill, JJ Minnis, Harrisons</b>...these books are available for your bespoke choice.
<p>Below a selection from the W. Bill tweed...Kevin is a big fan of tweed...as I am.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/tweed.jpg">
<p>He also carries <b>Nackymade</b>...a quirky, Japanese bespoke spectable frame house. And the magnificent <b>Gammerelli</b> and <b>Mazarin</b> socks. Shown below, Kevin's immaculately dressed foot with <b>Cleverly</b> shoes:
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/cleverly.jpg">
<p>I took a quick inspection of his work..impressive! Here on his own coat. A <b>double breasted</b> 6x4 with very light coloured, natural horn buttons.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/ks.jpg">
<p>The back...smooth and clean, note how the collar hugs his neck.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/back.jpg">
<p>The hand made button holes...and beautiful buttons
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/button.jpg">
And the shoulder line. This shoulder is a little exaggarated. For my personal taste, I would have preferred a more relaxed shoulder. But Kevin wanted to build up the shoulder to show the mini-pagoda-esque shoulder. Note pocket square.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/shoulder.jpg">
<p>Examining another customer's suit hanging on the rack...to show the hand work. The blind stitching of the floating chest piece as it connects to the lapel. View of the lapel inside as it is turned out.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/lapel.jpg">
<p>The hand made button holes, and the roll of the lapel's belly:
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/buttonhole.jpg">
<p>The melton used in the collar...again evidence of a great deal of handwork
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/melton.jpg">
<p>The interior of the suit also shows a significant amount of hand work...hand stitched seams joining the lining to the shell. I believe Kevin uses silk for linings. Many colours and patterns are available.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/stitching.jpg">
<p>And for the all important sleeve...hand stitched with a stretchable silk thread. Note the wriggly and uneven stitch lines. Though this may seem to be untidy, this is evidence of handwork, and indeed allows the sleevehead to stretch and move a bit within, allowing for a more comfortable fit.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/sleeve-inside.jpg">
And a quick look a the inside of a pair of bespoke trousers, showing the label and hand work within.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/kevin/trouser-detail.jpg">
<p>Very interesting fellow, this Kevin. Knowledgable of fabrics...even the more traditional fabrics, as he prefers <b>English mills</b> (hurray!!) to Italian ones. These days, many tailors are more interested to push the high tech fabrics by Zegna and Loro Piana, and neglect the magnificent mills of England, Wales and Scotland. I have a few suits made from the beautiful materials of Lovat Mills in Scotland, as with Fox Brothers flannel from England, and have had bad experiences with the expensive cloths from Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna.
<p>Fine taste. Great workmanship. I might be tempted to spring for a bespoke suit by Kevin to see how he fits. But with an active stable of probably 20 suits...many made by Gordon Yao and WW Chan, I think I might have to endure the temptation a while. Maybe my son's first bespoke suit....:-)
<p>I will recommend those in <b>Singapore</b> <b>seeking a bespoke tailor</b> to check out Kevin and see if it works for you. As I have mentioned in this blog...working with a tailor is sometimes a lifelong relationship. The relationship blossoms after a few suits, and then if the tailor is any good...perfection. Once you reach this stage, as I have with Gordon...you stick to your tailor...possibly for life.
<em>
Kevin Seah
Kevin Seah Bespoke
Dominic Khoo's 28th Fevrier
5 Jalan Kilang
Mobile: 91884681
kevin@kevinseah.com.sg
</em>Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-54873930945392516532012-01-05T10:25:00.000+08:002012-01-05T10:25:26.544+08:00Carmina London Lounge Oxford boots in Cordovan<h2>I reported on these beautiful boots when I <a href="http://true-bespoke.blogspot.com/2008/05/carmina-oxford-boots.html">received them in 2008.</a> Since then, I have had quite a few request to see how the boots have aged with wearing. Here are some photographs of the patinated cordovan boots.</h2>
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/carmina2/shoes.jpg">
<p>I don't wear these boots regularly, but do wear them on some trips. I wore them in rotation with a pair of Crockett & Jones Conniston boots and another pair of Carmina cordovan double monks in SIHH 2009 in Geneva in January, and thereafter a 5 day relaxation tour of Paris. But often, these are called to duty very infrequently. I typically wear them in more dressy events.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/carmina2/boots-upright.jpg">
<p>The patina is truly beautiful, and as I have described once before, the shine of the cordovan comes from within the leather, and not reside on the surface as it tends to be with calf.
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/carmina2/detail.jpg">Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com0Singapore1.352083 103.8198361.098096 103.503979 1.6060699999999999 104.13569299999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-9850601691888350242011-09-29T11:06:00.000+08:002011-09-29T11:06:48.779+08:00Bespoke shoes made in Singapore: Edwin et al.It excites me to find artisans who live, and work in Singapore...especially passionate young ones. Edwin Neo is one such individual.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/edwin/shoes.jpg"><br />
<br />
My friend Kasraa is another. Kasraa is an engineer by training and trade, but loved cordswaining so much, he enroled in a class to learn to make his own shoes as a hobby. He was one class senior to young Edwin and they share the same master in Hungary. When I bumped into Edwin, introduced by an old friend Dominic Khoo, I was truly intrigued. This young man, was going to make, by hand, fully welted shoes in Singapore.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/edwin/edwin.jpg"><br />
<br />
I met up with him at his atelier at Dominic Khoo's 28th Fevier at Jalan Kilang recently to hand over a pair of John Lobbs which were recently butchered by a local cobbler...imagine he used a wax thread and blake stitched my Lobbs. Shish. Anyway, Edwin should be able to take them apart, and resole the shoes and retain the welted construction.<br />
<br />
He offers a very reasonable bespoke service...and he hand makes the shoes himself. He clicks, makes, lasts, and finishes all the bespoke shoes.<br />
<br />
Here, on a mass production no 40 last (plastic last used for his ready to wear line). The bespoke line uses wooden lasts made in the UK. <br />
<br />
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/edwin/uppers.jpg"><br />
<br />
The uppers are hand stretched over the last, and nailed.<br />
<br />
Then welt is also hand stitched. Edwin has brought in the first Goodyear Welting machine in Singapore, and will use that, though for bespoke shoes, he will hand welt, as he was taught in Hungary.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/edwin/welting.jpg"><br />
<br />
I was particularly drawn to a pair of bespoke shoes displayed on a small chair:<br />
<br />
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/edwin/boots.jpg"><br />
<br />
Gorgeous work...very nicely done. Special customization for this shoe is the shorter tongue, so it does not move (wag?) around inside the boot. Nice.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/edwin/boots-front.jpg"><br />
<br />
And from the ready to wear line, the wholecuts<br />
<br />
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/edwin/wholecut.jpg"><br />
<br />
The shoes feature hand patina by Edwin. Though not as elaborate and as achingly beautiful as the works done on Berlutti or Corthay or Santoni, these were quite beautiful. The depth of the hues work well to show off the shoes.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/edwin/wholecut-detail.jpg"><br />
<br />
The leather used is not top top quality...but very good value for a pair that sells for S$250. <br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="">Here is their 2011 catalog.</a><br />
<br />
<em><br />
Edwin Neo<br />
Ed et al<br />
5 Jalan Kilang<br />
9794 0080<br />
edwin@edetal.sg<br />
</em>Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-15645535638348309722011-05-23T11:21:00.000+08:002011-05-23T11:21:55.907+08:00Cracking the Dress Code: A ProposalA proposal for a dress code for Singapore...<br />
<br />
I have been struggling with this issue of dress code for a while...especially in casual and sunny Singapore, where we take lightly these issues. <br />
<br />
I do like to conform to dress codes as specified by the host, because they have the honoured me with their invitation, and I would like to honour them with their wishes on how their guests should be dressed.<br />
<br />
Strictly speaking, I would catagorize dress code into 4 levels, viz Formal, Semi-Formal, Informal and Casual. And as a student of the sartorial arts, I learnt that the following are the definitions:<br />
<br />
<bold>Formal</bold><br />
<br />
For day time, this should be a morning suit. The morning suit is a special suit, where the coat is a cutaway from the long frock coat of former days. Typically the coat is single breasted, in black or very dark grey and worn with a lighter grey, or buff coloured waistcoat and striped trousers. An all grey ensemble is considered less formal, but acceptable as well. Traditionally the morning suit is worn with a formal hat, like the Homburg, but these days, the hat is often dispensed with. Shoes are formal, and should be closed laced. Oxfords with cap toes are the standard. No brogues, or double soled country shoes. Boots, if closed laced either plain toe or cap toe may be worn as well. Brown may be worn these days.<br />
<br />
For the evening, the prescription is also known as the white tie. The coat is a cutaway single breasted with tails. A black matching trousers is worn with two stripes down the outside of each leg, with no cuffs. A white waistcoat, which may be single breasted or double breasted is worn. And a white starched shirt with a white bow tie (no options for other colour...that is why its called white tie) is worn. It is important for the coat to fit well, as it is cut such that it cannot be buttoned, and remains open to display the waist coat and shirt front. A well cut coat should also just cover the waistcoat bottom, and it is incorrect to have the waistcoat peeking out from under the tailcoat.<br />
<br />
Traditionally a silk top hat accompanies the ensemble. Shoes should be patent leather oxfords or bow slippers. <br />
<br />
Full National Dress or a Military Uniform (No.1 Dress) is always acceptable.<br />
<br />
My proposal for Singapore: Black Tie or Semi-Formal as a substitute. Propose host to specify: Formal or Black Tie.<br />
<br />
<bold>Semi-Formal</bold><br />
<br />
For day time, this is the stroller. The coat may be double breasted in oxford grey (very dark grey) or single breasted, peak lapel. If single breasted, a waist coat cut from the same cloth should be worn. A pair of trousers which is not matching the coat is worn. The trousers should have no cuffs, and may be striped, plain lighter grey or checked. Houndstooth is a rather handsome alternative.<br />
<br />
For evening, the prescription (I don't use this word lightly, it is a prescription, and one is obligated to follow the prescription fully, no variations) is black tie. This typically comprise of a coat and trousers cut from the same material. The trousers should have one single row of braid on each outside trouser leg, and no cuffs. If the coat is double breasted, one may dispense of a waistcoat or cummerbund. But if the coat is single breasted, a waist covering of some form is mandatory. A waist coat or cummerbund in grosssgrain or the same cloth as the coat is essential. The coat may have peaked lapels for both single or double breasted. A shawl lapel may be worn for single breasted coats. Black, oxford grey or midnight blue are the only permissible colours for the ensemble, with the exception that white may be used for the coat in warm climates or during summer. Shoes may either be patent oxfords, pumps or black, plain oxfords in calf. A black bow tie is mandatory. No long ties of any sort is allowed. And black is the only colour permissible for the bow tie...that's why the ensemble is called black tie. There is no room in the prescription for alternatives, like those we sometimes see in Hollywood events like the Academy Awards, where Creative Black Tie is an abomination of the Black Tie prescription.<br />
<br />
The is no room for variation because the intent of formal clothing for men, is for all men to look similar, so the ladies may shine in their glorious gowns.<br />
<br />
My proposal for Singapore hosts: Tell your guests the dress code is Formal or Black Tie.<br />
<br />
<bold>Informal</bold><br />
<br />
Informal dress code means a lounge suit for the gentlemen. The suit may be single breasted or double breasted. And may be worn with or without a waistcoat. Typically the suit will comprise of either coat and trousers or coat, waistcoat and trousers. All these components should be cut from the same cloth. Shoes may be open laced or closed laced, but the gentlemen is adviced to wear single sole shoes, as the bulk of the double or triple welted soles are too bulky and will spoil the elgance of the ensemble. Black or brown are acceptable colours, though the traditional advice is no browns in town, or after 6pm. This is often relaxed these days. Also brown shoes are more interesting sartorially.<br />
<br />
A long tie in silk, which may be woven or printed is worn. And a gentleman never removes his coat. If a double breasted coat is worn, it should always be buttoned. If a single breasted coat is worn without a waistcost, it should also always be buttoned. But if a waistcoat is worn, the wearer may have the option to unbotton his coat.<br />
<br />
Both day and evening wear are the same, though darker colours are more sober. Traditional colours are grey and navy blue. Stripes, windowpanes and discrete patterns may be worn.<br />
<br />
My proposal is for Singapore host to specify: Lounge suit.<br />
<br />
<bold>Casual</bold><br />
<br />
Casual dress means a coat, long sleeved shirt, and no tie or a knit tie. <br />
<br />
My proposal for Singapore hosts is to specify: Smart Casual.<br />
<br />
For all dress, a nice pocket square, displayed on the left breast pocket of the coat is essential.<br />
<br />
For all other occassions, I propose the hosts need not specify dress code, and the guests may come as they wish.<br />
<br />
Some examples with photographs to follow next week.Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-84309866415635762522010-10-26T16:54:00.003+08:002010-10-26T17:18:38.651+08:00Bespoke Crocodile bagsMy good friend Prof. Massi once came to a black tie event with a beautiful clutch bag...shown above...in midnight blue crocodile skin. The design is at once arresting and beautiful. The skin of the crocodile is superb...as superior as any I have seen from the houses of Hermes. <br /><br /><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/ethan/massi1.jpg"><br /><br />When questioned, he beamed, and said the model is hand made by a friend of his...Ethan Koh, a homegrown bag designer, and promised to make the introduction so I can do this article on him. <br /><br />I met up with Ethan later...and discovered that he is one of the sons of the founding family for one of Singapore's largest suppliers of crocodile skins - Heng Long. He is a young chap...all 23 years old, but already runs his own company based in London, and is one of the secret supplier of style bags (note, not fashion...but more later) to the beautiful.<br /><br /><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/ethan/massi.jpg"><br><em>Massi opening his bag...to show the scale of the purse. Also, this is the bottom of the bag, showing the additional handle to slip his fingers into while holding the bag as a clutch. Picture supplied by Ethan K.</em><br /><br />His bags are interesting. Begining with the Massi...named after my friend. This particular design is smallish, and stylish enough for a man to use for evening, but also to be shared with his wife Francessca. It features a small handle at the bottom, so it can be used as a clutch. <br /><br /><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/ethan/massi2.jpg"><br /><br />The finishing is quite nice indeed. The workmanship, impeccable - appropriate use of hand stitching and machine stitching in areas where it matters...hand work for refinement and delicate areas, and machine stitching for strength. Note the picture below is a finishing method known as "bombe". Used in antique furniture, the French word describes a bending, or buldging of the wood verneer which is a result of painstaking steaming and bending of the wood. Appled to leather, the technique is done by polishing the skin with agate stone on a glazing machine, the effect is similar...glimmering in the light, the shape is a bold, but beautiful and graceful buldge at the side of the bag.<br /><br /><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/ethan/bombe.jpg"> <br /><br />Ethan tells me he uses only skins from the C. Niloticus, C. Porosus and the Aligator mississippiensis (Louisiana Aligator) - which he considers to be the best skins. <br /><br /><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/ethan/skin1.jpg"><br /><br />Above is the tanned skin, made orange of a C. Niloticus. Note the regular and squarish scales on the belly. For a high end bag, this is the only part which is used. One bag frequently needing 2 or sometimes 3 skins. Ethan makes his bag with one piece of skin wrapping the front of the bag, so there are no unsightly joints on the front or the back.<br /><br />Before dying, the aligator skin is somewhat a grey, white hue:<br /><br /><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/ethan/skin-neutral.jpg"><br /><br />The A. Caiman (Cayman aligator) represents the lower catagory of skins. What makes the Niloticus, Porusus and Louisiana more expensive?. It is of course, the beauty of the skin which justifies the catagorization - the ability to take a high shine, the even-ness of the scales, and the longevity of the skin after it is tanned and made into products. And, of course, the size. <br /><br />To make a bag, the skins needed are about 36 to 38 inches wide at the belly. It takes the Niloticus 6 to 8 years to grow to this size. Because crocs are violent creatures, tending to fight with each other, the best crocodiles are kept in isolation in single pens to prevent fighting. Whereas the regular crop of Thai Caymans will reach the needed size in about 1-2 years, and are usually kept 50 in a large enclosure. This leads to marred skins, but a much lower production cost. <br /><br />Ethan's customers are mainly ladies who have come through the entire spectrum of bags...from loud and bold designs by LV, to the quiet and dignified Hermes as personified by their Kelly and Birkin range. And finally into the bespoke services offered by Ethan. Interestingly, Ethan sees himself to provide bags which are timeless and stylish, and will not bow to the demands of fashion which change every so often.<br /><br />Here are two of his, perhaps more fashionable ladies bags...discrete, quiet, very well made, and superb in design.<br /><br /><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/ethan/ladies1.jpg"><br /><br /><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/ethan/ladies2.jpg"><br /><br /><br /><em><br />Ethan K<br />www.ethan-k.com<br /></em>Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-40207579562790995152010-08-27T09:36:00.002+08:002010-08-27T09:44:47.006+08:00Revamp of blog ongoingApologies for not posting for more than a year. I am surprised...that many of you still visit this blog periodically, some even daily, and I am grateful for other blog owners for your referrals. This blog gets a healthy readership, though I have been extremely laggard in updating.<br /><br /><img src="http://pete.langezone.com/pics/rob/plm-shoe.jpg"><br /><br />I am working on new articles. Let me know what you would like to see more...critiques of real life examples in the field, or focus on specific artisan, instructional articles on how to bespeak your suit/shirt/trousers, or rule discussions, or make your suggestion on what I should cover. I cannot promise to deliver everything, but I will certainly try and meet reader's demands and needs.<br /><br />I will try and relaunch this by October, perhaps earlier. And will attempt to update this blog at least once a week from thence. <br /><br />BTW, the shoe in the picture above is a custom patina for Carmina, by the ladies at Carmina's Avenue d'Opera, Paris store. And the watch is a A. Lange & Sohne Pour le Merite Tourbillon in yellow gold.Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-49878827951690861042009-08-19T10:20:00.000+08:002009-08-20T13:12:09.090+08:00Single Breasted example and another Double BreastedThis is the second of the series where I try and analyse what works or what does not for a suit being worn by colleagues, friends.<br /><br />The feature for this post is Stephen Luk. A well dressed, elegant gentleman, Steve cuts a dashing figure. <br /><br />Steve with me outside the Bulow Residenz in Dresden, Germany<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/steve-me.jpg"><br /><br />In this picture, Steve is wearing a 3 piece SB, made by A-Man Hing Cheong in Hong Kong. A-Man is one of the three great Bespoke Houses in Hong Kong..the other two being Baroman and WW Chan. The material is a beautiful, very light Super 180 by Scabal's. Known as the "Miracle", it is supposed to be light, finely woven fabric but yet still able to provide a good hang and flow. The shirt is also bespoke by Italian Tailor from Cistes 100% ultrafine cotton. The tie is by Luigi Borrelli and shoes are bespoke by John Lobb Paris.<br /><br />The cut is particularly apt for Steve, emphasizes his slim and elegant physique. The button point is perfectly selected. The lapel is cut in proportion to his body, rather than by fashion, and is timeless. The coat is slightly nipped at the waist, emphasizing the upper V. His sleeves are cut to show a bit of linen from his shirt cuffs...adding dimension and depth. Shoulders look unpadded or very lightly padded, and are natural, flowing nicely over his shoulders, and allowing the upper sleeve to create a waterfall effect.<br /><br />Tie is tied slightly askew, a desirable effect to make the entire ensemble looks totally relaxed and uncontrived. I would have put a pocket square on the chest pocket of the coat, but I have never seen Steve wear one, so perhaps I need to encourage him to start wearing them. <br /><br /><br />I am wearing a bespoke DB suit made by Gordon Yao in Hong Kong. I have been working with Gordon for about 4 years now, and his work is impeccable. The suit is cut beautifully, fully handworked, is very comfortable, and hangs well. Material is a 14 oz JJ Minnis chalkstripe woolen flannel - quite heavy these days, though de rigeur in the 1920. The heft of the material rewards the wearer by the way it hangs superbly with excellent drape. The woolen flannel also a lovely hand feel. I have the suit made up as a 3 piece, so within the DB coat, is a SB waistcoat. This suit, worn as a 3 piece is able to keep me warm without a topcoat through even wintry conditions, as long as it is above -10C.<br /><br />My shirt is bespoke by Jantzen Tailors, also in Hong Kong. I have all my shirts made by Jantzen. I have been working with Ricky of Jantzen for many years, and have developed a close relationship with him. It is important for one to develop a deep relationship with your bespoke tailor as he needs to understand your body, your needs and inclinations. <br /><br />My tie is by my favourite Italian tie company - Andrew's Ties in Milan. I have been using them for more than 20 years, and when I started to buy ties from them, they cost only L20,000 directly from a small store in Milan. I have experimented with 7 fold, 8 fold ties from famous and not famous houses, and I do like them to a certain extent...but my favourite ties are still those from Andrew. I must have a collection of nearly 50 from them. <br /><br />Shoes are the Weymouth, handgrade series from Crockett & Jones. I always wear a silk pocket square, this one is a generic fine Chinese silk, purchased inexpensively in the streets of Hong Kong.<br /><br />Note also that we are approximately the same height, and the button points of both coats are thus roughly the same level. The DB coat is slightly shorter than the SB, and this is as it should be. This is because the front panels of a SB open slightly to show some trouser leg, but the DB front panels remain closed always, and it needed to be cut slightly shorter to avoid the wearer from looking like he has short legs.<br /><br />This next picture shows Steve in a more relaxed environment...just after lunch at Castle Weesenstein near Glashutte, Germany.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/steve.jpg"><br /><br />Coat by Eddie Chow made from Loro Piana cashmere and wool. Bespoke shirt by Turnbull & Asser, standard poplin; trousers by Italian Tailor of HK, Vitale Barberis Canonico's grey flannel; suede boots by Crockett & Jones.<br /><br />Still extremely elegant. The cashmere/wool material is a bit country-ish like a smooth tweed. The texture of the material is quite amazing, and the hand feel is smooth. Again, excellent balance in the button position. Tapering shoulders accomodate for Steve's sloping shoulders, and the sleevehead feature a little roping. I would discourage normally a high rope or any rope for that matter on the sleevehead, but for the rustic material, and de-emphasized like Eddie has done here, it looks elegant and in place.Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-82289206142816942902009-04-21T00:15:00.003+08:002009-04-21T09:33:09.223+08:00Double Breasted, an example<bold>Double Pinstripe DB suit</bold><br /><br />The chalkstripe DB is a classic for any man's wardrobe...unfussy, it exudes a classic feel and style and is suitable for daytime wear for business and formal enough to carry one through an evening of cocktails and dinner.<br /><br />I will start a series of articles to delve deeper into what makes a suit work or not...and we begin with a good friend - Wei Koh, Founder and Editor in Chief at Revolution Press...the publishers of watch magazine Revolution, menswear magazine The Rake and ladies luxury magazine Cake.<br /><br />Wei is a natty and rakish (no pun intended) dresser, with a touch of wild modernism to traditional English styling.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/true-bespoke/wei.jpg"><br /> <br />The suit is made by Eddy Chow of Hong Kong. Fabric is Loro Piana Super 120 double pinstripe that from a far looks like a single chalk stripe. Shoes are from Gerard Sene.<br /><br />My personal view of the suit:<br /><br /><ol><br /><li>lovely cloth, looks like flannel, with nice double pintripes.<br /><li>collar spread nice and wide. Goes well with Wei's long, narrow face.<br /><li>paisley tie gives a anachronistic look, I would have preferred a larger tie knot with the wide cutaway collar spread.<br /><li>natural shoulder line, very nice. little or no shoulder pads. Shoulders cut just slightly larger than natural shoulder, but lack of padding allows it to fall naturally. Nice.<br /><li>coat collar sticks to neck, indicates good tailoring around the collar, especially the critical measurement of the back of the neck.<br /><li>the coat looks on the long side, making the torso look longer and the legs shorter. But on measurement, it is proportionally correct, indicating that the long torso effect is possibly due to balance of the button point resulting in a low crossover of the front panels. Consistent with this assumption, the level of the pocket openings, shown by the piping on the pocket flaps are higher than the lowest buttons. Also the lowest buttons close below the hip bone, making it difficult for Wei to put his hands into his pockets. <br /><li>by moving the 4 lower buttons up about 1.5", the crossover point would move up by the same amount and the lowest buttons would just about line up with the pocket piping. And the lowest buttons will be about hipbone level. This will help balance the coat and would have the effect of shortening the torso, and lengthening legs.<br /><li>coat has a nice nipped waist, emphasizing the V shape of the upper body.<br /><li>the button stance seems good...arranged in a square, possibly 4 5/8". The square stance is good for a lean physique.<br /><li>lapels look very straight, cut with little or no belly. Makes the coat look angular. This is fine, though personally I would prefer a bellied lapel, which will appear softer and is more pleasing to the eye.<br /><li>stripes on the piping on pockets made to line up with flap and coat front panels a nice touch. This used to be an Anderson & Shepperd touch, but now used by many bespoke houses.<br /><li>the sleeve does not show any linen. Shortening the coat sleeve slightly by 1/2 or 3/4 inches would allow some linen to peek through and would add dimension to the sleeves.<br /><li>the breast pocket correctly displays a nice pocket handkerchief, but same straight angular look carried from the unbellied lapels makes the coat look a bit severe. Would be nicer if it were gently curved upwards as it sweeps away from the center line. <br /><li>a good tailor would also make the front of the pocket buldge outwards slightly to accomodate a pocket square easily.<br /><li>the trousers are a bit narrow, the drain pipe further contributes to the appearance that the top is heavy.<br /><li>trouser leg length a tad long...too many breaks on the front line, side lines. This ruins the illusion of length and height. In a conversation with Wei, he remarked that this is due to the loose waistline of the trousers...causing it to slip. He is making provisions for braces to be retro-fitted to allow the trousers to hang properly.<br /></ol><br /><br /><em>photonotes: taken in-situ at the Blancpain booth during BaselWorld 2009 during cocktails. The lighting in the booth was less than ideal...mixed lighting of mainly halogens and flourescent and quite dim. The resulting image on the Panasonic DMC LX3 was grainy, and some judicious adjustments on Photoshop had to be done to salvage the image that it becomes barely usable. </em>Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-80455327315609868422008-11-27T16:50:00.000+08:002008-11-27T17:39:03.194+08:00A visit to Northampton, and the Edward Green Factory<em>with Dr. Frank Muller. Originally written and posted in Timezone.com and Ask Andy Forum in 2004, with some updates.</em><br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image001.jpg"><br /> <br />The boot of our car after an afternoon’s shopping in Northampton. Final count – 2 pairs of Edward Greens, 5 pairs of John Lobbs. What a success!<br /><br />As a detour from a trip I made recently leading a group of watch enthusiasts to the Lange Uhren factory in Glashutte, Germany, I spent the weekend with a Lange's then Joint Managing Director - my good friend Dr. Frank Muller in London. We spent the afternoon in gentlemanly pursuits of browsing the stores in Savile Row, Jermyn Street and at the Burlington Arkade, before spending the evening at Ronnie Scotts with some great Jazz. We hired a car, spent the night in Cambridge University...we stayed in a small hotel right by the campus, and even managed to catch a live choral performance in one of the collages. The next day we went shopping in Northampton oand …ended up with the above spoils.<br /><br />We called the Edward Green factory ahead, and secured an 11am spot with our hostess – Susie Jones. She met us cheerfully at the door, and showed us around.<br /><br />The first room we came to, we saw a team of men cutting leather. The process, known as clicking was performed by a highly skilled workman who would cut the individual pieces of leather into patterns. Edward Green shoes use Swiss calf. Bespoke shoes, at that time made under the supervision of Master cordswainer Tony Gaziano, is sent out to outhouses around Northampton. Tony has since left Edward Green and now on his own firm of Gaziano & Girling.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image003.jpg"><br /><br />We were told that all clicking for Edward Green was done at this place. The picture below shows a master clicker, placing pieces of leather on his pattern (which, as shown is a piece of green cardboard).<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image005.jpg"> <br /><br />The patterns were then stitched together in these huge sewing machines, like those your mother would use for mending clothes, as shown below.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image007.jpg"> <br /><br />After stitching, the leather takes the shape of an upper.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image009.jpg"> <br /><br />A machine was used to make the perforations in the brogue.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image011.jpg"><br /><br />The broging pattern on the upper:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image013.jpg"><br /> <br />Next, we went to visit the man with the lasts. Here all the lasts were stored. Not sure why I only have the small picture for this shot. Bespoke lasts are kept elsewhere, these are RTW lasts. <br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image015.jpg"> <br /><br />The sewn uppers were then stretched over the last like so. At this stage, the shoelaces were nothing more than pieces of cloth, just to keep the uppers closed.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image016.jpg"> <br /> <br />The upper is then nailed onto the last, with temporary nails:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image018.jpg"><br /><br />An iron wire is then lopped over the last, and pulled into place, stretching the upper over the last. A machine is used to do this:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image020.jpg"> <br /><br />Then, the nails are then removed, and the shoe/last looks like this.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image022.jpg"> <br /><br />Another team, in the meantime, prepares the soles, but glueing in the feather. In the Northampton tradition, the feather is made from cloth, but the feather of a benchmade shoe can be also made of leather. <br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image024.jpg"> <br /><br />The shoe was then put into a Goodyear welting machine, which did the stiching of the welt, semi-automatically. The operator puts the upper/sole on, clamps it tight, and off the machine goes at a furious pace, finishing the complete welt in less than 20s. EG bespoke shoes are hand stitched, and do not use a Goodyear machine. This process is more involved, and requires more skill from the cordswainer, and of course takes more time.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image026.jpg"> <br /><br />After welting, the inner side is then filled with cork bits:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image028.jpg"> <br /><br />And the shoe is then sent for installing the sole. Backtracking upstairs, we came across these two gentleman, who were in charge of “skin stitching” the aprons and center toe seams. First, the thread is prepared by waxing:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image030.jpg"> <br /><br />Then, the aprons are stitched using a boar’s bristle. From what I can see, using a boar’s bristle, due to the ability of the bristle to flex, gives a smoother finish on the raised apron than can be achieved with a steel needle. Only Edward Green and John Lobb use this technique of sewing with a boar's bristle.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image032.jpg"><br /><br />Returning to the shop floor, the outer soles are glued, and stitched on, leaving the thread inside the channels. The shoes then wait with the channels open:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image034.jpg"><br /><br />The channel is then closed:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image036.jpg"> <br /><br />The heels are nailed on:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image038.jpg"> <br /><br />And the final finishing at the factory floor, the soles are cleaned, and a hot iron is used to apply polish to the edges:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image040.jpg"> <br /><br />The shoe is then sent to the finishing department, where skilled craftsmen select the final color of the shoe, and finish it to their specifications:<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Northampton_files/image042.jpg"><br /><br />The final product...a beautiful patina, and wonderful shoe. This is the Berkerly in antique oak in the 202 last.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/l1_eg2.jpg">Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-55406927965437578592008-10-31T15:30:00.000+08:002008-11-01T18:09:15.330+08:00Bespoke personal audioNot all bespoke...just the headphones.<br /><br />I have been an audiophile for a long time...many, many years...and retired from active upgrading some 14 years ago. My main system has stayed the same since. The system comprised of an almost all Meridian Digital system. <br /><br />But the subject of today's post is my portable stereo. Comprising of a set of custom moulded Livewires T1, amplified by RSA Hornet, and MP3s ripped EAC/LAME 320kbps on a Creative Zen Vision 30GB player.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/livewires/portable.jpg"><br /><br /><br />These phones are two drivers, and custom moulded to fit one's ear...bespoke earphones, so to speak. An ear mould is taken, and sent to the factory, and they make the units accordingly. <br /><br />I see from pics in <a href="http://www.head-fi.org">head-fi</a> that it comes with a plastic LV case with a cleaning tool and some alcohol swabs. But the local dealer Jaben's supremo Wilson gave it to me in a small ziplock bag! He threw in a little black fabric case...quite neat. Doesn't LW ship the case anymore?<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/livewires/lv.jpg"><br /><br />Also the wires are Westone, and I find them a bit on the short side.<br /><br />The fit...initially I feel the right ear fit comfy, and left was very tight...so tight that it hurts after an hour. I spoke to a head-fi friend of mine in SYD, and he advised that tight is better than loose...and my ears should accomodate. Indeed they do. Now I feel the right ear, though still maintains a decent seal, is slightly loose...and the left is ok.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/livewires/lv-detail.jpg"><br /><br />I find the LW to be high sensitivity...on my DVD player's headphone output, I am on volume control between 7 (min) and 7:30...8 oçlock is too loud. This same headphone output for similar volume on the Allesandro MS-1 is 10 o'clock . But when used with the Ray Samuels Hornet, run in with some 500 hours under its belt, on low gain, it is just nice. Volume knob at a rather loud, but comfortable level is about 10 o'clock. Most of the time I listen to about 9. <br /><br />I guess the LW are still burning in...head-fi reports that the headphones needed some 500 hours to settlein. I have about 150 hours or so, the sonic signature remains more or less the same as when I got it, but the amount of details, and high end extension are improving slight with each day. The bass is strong, mids seem neutral, highs a bit recessed.<br /><br />Soundstage not as open and airy as my Stax SRM-001. Initially, as this is my first IEM, and I feel a kind off dense feeling on my brain area with the LW inserted. But now it is quite comfortable. In comparison, the Stax is very open, the soundstage seem boundry-less. races. <br /><br />Midrange sweetness also loses out to Stax, but very close. The Stax, typical of an electrostatic is also better at the speed of transient attacks and nice decays. The LW's overall micro-dynamics are not as well defined. This is perhaps an unfair comparison, because an electrostatic is probably the champion in micro-dynamics.<br /><br />Detail also seem a bit less than the Stax, but close. The LW is quite fussy with equipment. I can tell easily between 128kbps MP3, 228kbps MP3 and 320kps MP3 (all ripped EAC, LAME) on a Creative Zen Vision versus from the headphone jack of my Sony DVD player. In this sense, it is not different from the SRM-001, which is extremely critical of upstream equipment.<br /><br />The RSA Hornet made a huge improvement in power, drive and control.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/livewires/hornet.jpg"><br /><br />Immaculately constructed, the Hornet was an exceptional amplifier. Ray Samuels is a true genius...his Hornet, Tomahawk, and Predator are all ground shaking products. Superbly built, and powerful sonics...starting from the bass as a foundation, to sikly, powerful midrange, and smooth extended highs, the Hornet is a great amp.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/livewires/hornet2.jpg"><br /><br />Macro dynamics seem ok...can go very loud, and soft passages are still ok. this refers to the system as above. On its own, plugged directly into the Zen Vision, the Livewires are loud, but lacks some final authority, and driving power. Bass was also less defined. With the Hornet, all these changed and tighten up. Final analysis is that overall the system with Hornet/LW still loses out to the Stax in ability to retrieve low level detail. I have an urge to turn up with volume with the LW more so than with the Stax.<br /><br />Overall Livewires without the Hornet offers a sound which lacks something to me. But coupled with the Hornet, it takes a different character, takes on an authority like a large 200Wpc amp is like to do, and provides close competition to the Stax. However, the total price of the LW plus Hornet is almost double of a set of Stax SR-M001 (Japan price Y24,000). <br /><br />The biggest advantage of the LW over the Stax is isolation. The Stax provides no isolation at all, and leaks a small amount to the environment. The LW provides some 20 dB of isolation - good enough to cut off ambient noise in an airplane or train. It was good enough for me to use in lieu of ear plugs when attending the Singapore Formula 1.Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-31369338697085199452008-06-02T20:24:00.000+08:002008-06-02T21:15:41.031+08:00The 1930s styleThe website "<a href="http://the30sstyle.com">"The 30s Style"</a> is the work of one Mr. Yamazaki, dedicated to return to the zenith of men's style - the 1930s.<br /><br />Here is a report I posted at The London Lounge, slightly rewritten, on a meeting with Mr. Yamazaki and his stylist - the efferverscent Mr. Okisaka.<br /><br />Mr. Yamazaki was accompanied by his lovely wife who also acted as translator. I took quite a few pictures during the two hours or so we discussed tailoring, suit design. <br /><br />Mr Yamazaki wore a beautiful blue suit with multicolor chalk stripes. It is a single breasted design, with large sweeping peak lapels, and was quite stunning. Mr. Okisaka wore the houndstooth double breasted suit. <br /><br />Mr. Okisaka is not a tailor nor a cutter, but a fashion designer who takes inspiration liberally from the 1930s. He has reached a stage of development in his design career that he is able to freely interprete the elements of the 1930s which suit his sense of style to incorporate into his clothes. This interpretive style is refreshing, his mastery and fluency of the language of design in those years allowed him to either be faithful to the original (like the suit he made for Yamzaki shown here) or to use elements to redisign a suit like the one he is wearing. <br /><br />A silhoutte of the trio in my hotel room:<br /><br /><img width=600px src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/silhouttes.jpg"><br /><br />Here is a sepia toned photograph of Mr. Yamazaki. Sitting on the chair, he looks regal - reminds me of the late Emperor Hirohito. He is a full blown 1930s chappie, head to toe (except for Crockett & Jones Captoes he wore on Sat). His glasses were vintage looking as was his watch. The suit is particularly beautiful.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/yamazaki-sepia.jpg"><br /><br />And the creator of these suits, Mr. Okisaka - was more flamboyant, and less bound by the 1930s style. His own personal style takes clues from the 1930s, but as mentioned, he is progressed to a stage where he is free to interprete as he pleases.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/okisaka3.jpg"><br /><br />The Yamazaki 3B SB, 3 piece suit in multi-stripe<br /><br />The shoulder<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Tokyo/shoulder.jpg"><br /><br />Note the heavily roped shoulder, high notch position and large lapels. Note also the handmade buttonaire hole. This style is quite showy. Despite this showy style, it is interesting that the Okisaka-san chose not to use pick stitching on the lapel.<br /><br />Note also the lapel is cut such that the edge is straight, following closely one of the stripes on the material pattern. Okisaka-san explained to me that he made this so that the lapel looked more angular. Typical English or Italian cut lapels would have a slight curve - known as the belly, which I prefer, and makes the coat look less angular.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Tokyo/sleevehead.jpg"><br /><br />The shoulder is hand constructed...picture above showing the inside stitching. The workmanship is immaculate.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Tokyo/yamazaki2.jpg"><br /><br />Note the angular lapel, with the very high notch position, coupled with a button point which is at approximately midpoint of the coat, and pronounced and pinched waist makes the garment looks rather dramatic. This gives the optical illusion that the wearer is taller than he actually is. The Duke of Windsor used this to great effect.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Tokyo/trouser-height.jpg"><br /><br />Level indicating the height of the trousers at the back. The trousers were held by braces, and typical high back, fish tailed.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Tokyo/yamazaki-back.jpg"><br /><br />The back of the coat had a slight fullness around the shoulder blades.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Tokyo/label.jpg"><br /><br />The cloth was a rather interesting vintage material from Thornton-Jones. Lining was apalca wool, which had a very dull finish, rather different from viscose, but still afforded the smoothness to allow one to slide into the coat.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Tokyo/chest.jpg"><br /><br />Showing the dart construction. Okisaka-san took great pains to explain that the coat was constructed. <br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Tokyo/side.jpg"><br /><br />I am not sure if I understand him clearly. But apparently, unlike modern coats, where there is a side panel running all the way from the bottom of the armpit to the coat bottom. This side panel is attached to the rear panel, and the front panel. In his costruction such that the side panel is completely missing, but the front panel extends to meet the rear panel.<br /><br />Interesting suit, extremely well cut and stitched. But not a style for me...a bit too showy.Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-5875059197008779742008-05-27T09:07:00.000+08:002008-05-27T11:16:47.510+08:00Japanese StyleThe Japanese have a flair for improving anything. Take the gentlemen's suit. A creation of British tailors, the suit is a mainstay in gentlemen clothing all over the world. The Japanese business community is no different, and have taken to this style very well. The traditional suit is the de facto standard in business wear in Japan. The Kanji name for suit is <i>subero</i>, an phonetic translation of the origin of the Englishman's suit - Savile Row.<br /><br />But as is typical of the Japanese, they have created improvements to the suit - whether by innovations of Japanese tailors, or demand to other tailoring traditional countries like Italy to produce what they need to take the British Suit to the next level. <br /><br />Homes and offices in England at the turn of the century were largely unheated. With this as a backdrop it is easy to understand why traditional English material like flannel, tweeds are heavy and warm. In contrast, offices and homes in Japan, especially in large metropolitan areas like Tokyo is rather controlled - heating in winter, air conditioning in summer is a given. As a result, the heavy(starting at weights like 14/15 oz up to 20 oz for suiting) suiting material favoured by the British are not in high demand. Rather, thinner and lighter material are favoured. Typically 9 oz but sometimes up to 11 oz is popular. Also looser weaves like those in fresco (a loosely woven, gauze like material which is wonderfully cooling to wear as it allows air to circulate freely) is popular, as are half lined and quarter lined suits in lieu of fully lined ones. <br /><br />I feature 2 gentlemen I met recently in a trip to Dresden, Germany. One is Matsuyama Takeshi, a gentleman of great style, and finese. Matsuyama-san writes on a freelance basis for a number of Japanese magazines on style and watches. <br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/suits/mt.jpg"><br /><br />A lovely jacket, made of mohair and ultra thin...unlined, made like a shirt. Tie is made by a Florence atelier and true 8 fold, unlined. Very cool and also cool looking.<br /><br />The other gentleman is a watch publication journalist. I apologise for not getting his name. <br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/suits/japanesegent.jpg"><br /><br />Starting at the top...a Montecristi Panama Ultimo hat looks great perched on his head. Buff colored linen coat, with huge patched, cargo pockets. The coat looked like its half or quarter lined. The nonchalance of the pocket square, taking the colour cue from the blue shirt, but not matching. Trousers of the same hue, but lighter, completes this completely <i>degage</i> look. Very cool.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/suits/japanesegent2.jpg"><br /><br />Note Louis Vuitton tote which houses his camera equipment. Is this a new trend for men to carry large versions of what used to be ladies handbags? I also saw another gentleman carrying a Hermes Birkin Manbag elsewhere.<br /><br />Shoes are Paraboot, complete with red laces and red socks. <br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/suits/japanesegent3.jpg">Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667619378158461656.post-60706560715145475672008-05-18T20:29:00.000+08:002008-05-19T19:33:51.467+08:00Carmina Oxford BootsReceived this pair of boots last week...after a few months of waiting since ordering them.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/carmina-boot1.jpg"><br /><br />This is a special order in limited edition made possible by <a href="http://www.thelondonlounge.net">The London Lounge</a>. Available only to Lounge members and only in cordovan, this boot is lasted on the Robert last. <br /><br />The boot is unusual in a few counts. Oxford (closed laced) boots are quite rare...the only RTW example I know of is made by Edward Green. Secondly, a pair made out of cordovan, is even more rare. Cordovan is a membrane from the hind of a horse, makes an especially tough, and beautiful leather for shoes. <br /><br />At first glance, the elegance and formality afforded by the Oxford design would seem to clash not go well with usually thicker, heavier cordovan. But this boot pulls it off very well...thanks to the combined design genius of Michael Alden (supremo at The London Lounge) and Carmina.<br /><br />The boot turned out to be very elegant, and beautiful. As is typical of shoes and boots coming from the Spanish workshops of Carmina, the finish was very fine. The cordovan was heavily impregnated with fat, as can be seen as the whitish residue on the surface, and wax-like look. Rubbing it vigrously with a clean polish cloth would heat the cordovan and bring the fat to a high gloss shine.<br /><br />Cordovan shine is different from that of calf...the analogy I used to explain to a friend who is an accomplished architect made him instantly understand was the parallel between the shine of granite and marble. Cordovan is like granite. The shine comes from within...there seems to be a thin membrane wax covering the surface. Whilst calf leather's shine seems superficial, skin deep.<br /><br />The boot is also hand welted. The usual welts in a normal high quality bench made shoes and boot are Goodyear welted. The Goodyear machine, invented by son of Charles Goodyear (who invented the process to vulcanise rubber and created the tyre giant of the same name). This was a great invention in the industralisation of cordwaining. The Goodyear machine looks like a huge sewing machine, and does a similar job...attaching by even, sturdy stitches the welt to the upper. This reduced the skill level required in welting, and introduced mass produced, high quality shoes.<br /><br />Even very high quality shoes and boots made RTW by John Lobb Paris or Edward Green in Northampton are Goodyear welted. Usually hand welting is reserved for bespoke shoes and boots. Hand welting results in a finer welt, and this translates to a more comfortable fit.<br /><br /><img src="http://people.timezone.com/pchong/carmina-boot2.jpg"><br /><br />I typically wear the Philadelphia last on Carmina 9.5E, and Miguel Font, the Director of the Paris store, recommended 9.5E on the Robert. At first wearing the boot seemed a bit tight at the instep, but quite comfortable. I think it was a good call by Miguel on the size. In comparison, Robert is slightly longer than the Philadelphia, and typically wearers would order half a size smaller. For reference I wear 9.5E on the Edward Green 202 last.Scenes in Singapore lifehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06600005193364926538noreply@blogger.com3